Day 23 — Reykjavik to Kirkjubæjarklaustur, Iceland

We picked up our hire car this morning. The plan for the next week or so is to drive around Iceland, check out some sites and wild camp along the way.

We picked up our rental car in Reykjavik and drove in a south easterly direction. We had a rough self-drive itinerary that we were following but we weren’t too concerned with following it on point.

Our first stop was the Blue Lagoon, the famous geothermal pool of silica mud with a strange milky blue appearance. Due to it’s high concentrations of minerals such as silica and sulfur, the pool is said to cure various medical ailments and skin conditions.

I’d seen a bunch of photos of the Blue Lagoon before flying to Iceland and it looked so ungodly cool that I had high expectations. But the solitude and peace of being surrounded by untouched wilderness over the past few days has changed my perception of things. When we arrived at the blue lagoon I was repulsed.

It was quite the drive before we reached our next stop, but it was totally worth it. Seljandsfoss is arguably Iceland’s most famous waterfall. In a boundless green field, the cascade drops 60 meters from rocks above into a serene pool below. Whilst the size and structure isn’t all that epic (it totally is but it’s Iceland we’re comparing to), it’s the fact you can walk behind it that’s most impressive. The thunderous sound of water, the spray, the sun shining through the water, the view of green pastures spreading all the way down to the sea. It’s breathtaking.

Not to far down the road from Seljandsfoss is Skógafoss, a vibrant, pulsing waterfall, tumbling over a sunken grass covered cliff. You can climb to the top of the cliff via a long staircase and it provides a surreal view of the surrounding countryside. From above you can also view the gushing river tumble, fall and dissolve into fine thunderous mist. It’s pretty cool and I think worth the stairs climbed.

We stopped off for dinner at a restaurant in Vik. I was in a shit mood so we ordered a starter of rotten shark and dried fish to cheer me up.

The first thing to hit you is the acrid smell wafting, even before the bloody plate has left the waiters hands. Then, scooping up a small chewy, salty, smelly cube, raise it closer to your mouth. The smell explodes in a mixture of blue cheese and fish, punching you in the face before you’ve even taken a goddam bite. Now make your move. Place it between your teeth and slowly slide it off the fork.

The fishiness is overwhelming. Your mouth becomes a cavern of saliva. You want to vomit. Instead you chew. Just once. One single rotation of your jaw. Your face wrinkles. Your nostrils flare. This is death.

After this we drove on to Kirkjubæjarklaustur. Go on say it. SAY IT OUT LOUD I DARE YOU.

On the way we pulled over by the side of the road to admire the sunset. The beautiful wild purple flowers bathing in the soft light. Everything was a beautiful shade of lilac.

Of course, everything beautiful comes at a price. Our’s was stupidity. Thinking we could pull off the side of an Icelandic road. Laughable. Roads in Iceland are made for a reason, unless you have a monster truck – stick to them.

I got out and pushed while Rick reversed. Our car was bogged and all we managed to do was rev ourselves a deeper hole. It was comedic. Eventually we paused, hands on hips and deliberated what to do next. Fortunately at that moment an Icelandic couple pulled up next to us and offered us a shovel (and a hand). They cheerfully joined in, pushing, pulling and digging around our car until it freed and zipped up to the asphalt. Yay Icelandic people, you seem to be the only nation on earth that doesn’t hate tourists yet!